Installing a WC frame – how to do it properly?

Designing an attractive, fully functional bathroom calls for careful consideration of many factors. Space is one of the most important, as the area available determines the layout and equipment options of any bathroom. So how should you install a concealed WC frame in a bathroom to do it not only correctly but also elegantly? You’ll find out below!

Boxing in a concealed frame – what you need to know

A concealed frame is, essentially, a metal framework that then serves as a substructure for ceramic tiles. With such a frame you can enclose not only the WC, but also a basin and even a bidet. These frames primarily serve an aesthetic purpose, yet a good concealed WC frame often doubles as a small shelf—provided the frame’s design allows for it.

Cladding the WC frame makes it possible to hide all those bathroom elements that could detract from the overall look of the interior. Few people are unfazed by exposed pipes or a visible toilet cistern. It’s worth concealing them and using a frame for the purpose. How do you box in a WC frame?

Boxing in a concealed WC must be carried out in stages. The order of operations matters for correct installation of the frame and its subsequent use (especially if it will also serve as a shelf).

How to box in a concealed WC – choosing the frame

There are two basic groups of concealed frames on the market. The first are sets for so‑called wet installation. They are used with masonry walls and also require brick/block work, so their installation is considerably more time‑consuming than with so‑called dry installation sets.

The latter are fitted much faster. Notably, frames of this type can work with both masonry walls and plasterboard partitions. Concealed frame sets are further divided into more specific categories.

You can distinguish low-height frames, full-height frames, and self-supporting frames. A low frame is ideal primarily for a WC; full-height frames are more common for enclosing basins, though they are often used for WC pans as well. The last type is suitable for atypical ceramic tiles that are larger and heavier, and therefore require a reinforced frame profile capable of bearing their weight.

Bear in mind that concealed frames also come with additional, equally important parameters. Before choosing, determine the required cistern capacity (typically six litres, though dual‑flush and water‑saving systems exist), match the flush plate to the frame’s design (flush plates are seldom included with the concealed set and must usually be selected separately), and define the frame depth.

Concealed frame – installation

The first and most important step is choosing where to install the frame. Wet‑installation frame sets are used right at the outset—not so much of the bathroom fit‑out as of the build itself in new houses or flats. The frame and cistern should be screwed to the wall, while the water tank is connected to the water supply. The frame and WC pan are joined with special bolts and secured with nuts to stabilise the structure. The final stage is to brick the frame in.

A frame for dry installation is better suited to a smaller bathroom and is fixed to the wall not only with screws but also with wall plugs. The wall‑hung pan is placed on the bolts and secured much as with wet‑installation sets. The difference lies in boxing in the frame with plasterboard rather than brickwork.

Setting the mounting height of the frame is also crucial, as a set without adjustable connections will rule out later corrections. Pay close attention to correctly connecting the cistern to the water supply. Use metal or plastic pipes for this purpose. Braided rubber flexi hoses are not acceptable.

The final step is to ensure the waste outlet is clear. The WC drainage must be optimal; otherwise, problems with proper waste removal may occur. Installing a WC frame is not the easiest task, especially with wet‑installation sets. Have the experience and know‑how to do it yourself? Then do it. Otherwise, trust the professionals.